Maria Vai com as Ostras

A moda pegou até na ostreicultura catarinense. Até as ostras agora são verdes.

O fenômeno não é novo. Todo ano no segundo bimestre as ostras produzidas na baía Sul da Ilha de Santa Catarina apresentam-se com as brânquias tomadas pela coloração verde. Mas em 2009 a intensidade está maior.

Na França “huître verte’’ é a variedade mais valorizada pelos consumidores que apreciam a coloração e, sobretudo o sabor. Elas são produzidas na costa da região de Marennes Oleron através de uma técnica especial de manejo.

Após atingirem o tamanho ideal, as ostras são alojadas por semanas em claires, que são tanques pouco profundos escavados em terreno argiloso a beira mar e com dimensões em torno de 600 m2. Nos claires os moluscos recebem o affinage, ou seja, terminação que lhes concede refinamento especial, principalmente em sabor e cor.

As ostras assimilam um sabor marinho firme e, subliminarmente, com gosto terroir que se prolonga por muitos dias. A coloração adquire a tonalidade verde em razão de nos claires proliferar uma microalga diatomácea, Navicula fisiformis.

Os moluscos filtradores se alimentam desta alga que possui a coloração verde azulada. Em excesso no claire, Navicula passa a ter importância quantitativa na dieta da ostra e, ao ser filtrada para o interior do molusco e ter contato com as brânquias, tinge este órgão da ostra com seu pigmento verde azulado, denominado marenina.

Tentando explicar de uma forma mais simples, é o mesmo que ocorre com a língua de uma pessoa quando consome beterraba.

Em Santa Catarina, a situação é muito parecida. Na baía Sul, entre março e abril, há a ocorrência de uma microalga no plâncton com características semelhantes à Navicula no que concerne à quantidade e pigmentação. As ostras comem e se lambuzam, ou melhor, se esverdeiam.

Não se pesquisou ainda se a alga que ocorre nesta baía e causa o fenômeno é também Navicula. No entanto, uma coisa é certa, não há nenhum problema para a saúde humana.

E quanto ao charme, nos igualamos aos mais requintados e exigentes consumidores de ostras do mundo, os franceses.

Voilá ! Huître verte brésilenne!

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Estará em Vitória no dia 17/11/2008 o chef Tsuyoshi Murakami do restaurante Kinoshita, eleito chef do ano pela revista Veja São Paulo e melhor chef do Brasil pelo Guia Quatro Rodas. Ele trouxe ao Brasil a Kappo Cusine, um novo conceito da alta gastronomia japonesa, que procura aflorar diversas sensações a partir de exóticas combinações de aromas, texturas e sabores de raras iguarias.

O evento contará com uma aula show, com jantar de degustação, harmonizado com saquê, vinho branco e vinho tinto, e acontecerá no Espaço Gourmet Extraplus, no Hortomercado, com início as 20:00hs. Reservas poderão ser feitas pelo telefone: (27)9866-0626 ou pelo email mariaterezacastroaragao@hotmail.com, o valor da inscrição é de R$ 140,00.

Para o conforto dos participantes, em tempos de lei-seca, a Sendai, concessionária Mitsubishi, disponibilizará veículos para transportar aqueles que forem apreciar o melhor do restaurante paulista Kinoshita, na volta para casa.

O cardápio da noite será:

Entrada:

Sunomono de Lichia
Sea Food Salad
Nametake ao limão

Principal:

Beef Katsu
Pasta de cogumelos

Sobremesa:

Hibiki Fruit

Para os que gostam de ostras, 2 novos endereços para curtir. Em Vitória o restaurante Partido Alto da Praia do Canto, recentemente inaugurado incluiu desde o fim do mês de outubro no cardápio ostras frescas, ostras gratinadas e ostras ao vinagrete. Em Vila Velha inaugura amanhã, 12/11/2009 a Choperia do Assis, que terá em seu cardápio as tradicionais ostras frescas. Ambos os restaurantes oferecem ostras durante todos os dias da semana e abrem de segunda a domingo.

Restaurante Partido Alto - Praia do Canto
Rua Joaquim Lírio, 865
Vitória - ES

Choperia do Assis
Avenida Estudante José Júlio de Souza, 50
Vila Velha - ES

A Prefeitura de Florianópolis realizou no dia 24/09 o primeiro teste para adicionar ostras na merenda escolar. Foi servido aos alunos de uma escola municipal um risoto de ostras.

Pelas regras do PNAE (Programa Nacional de Alimentação Escolar), para que um novo produto seja incluído no cardápio das escolas há necessidade de que no teste haja aprovação de 85% dos alunos participantes. Neste primeiro teste a aprovação foi de 86,6%.

A inclusão das ostras na merenda escolar é mais um crédito para as ostras produzidas na Grande Florianópolis (aproximadamente 90% da produção nacional), monitaradas e com total segurança alimentar.